HOW TO

Video Clips & Instruction Sheets

Gun Cleaning Rules
Cleaning Procedures
Helpful Hints

Lists of Components
Cleaning Patches
Bore Brushes

Rifle Cleaning
Shotgun Cleaning
Semi-automatic Pistol Cleaning
Revolver Cleaning
Small Caliber Cleaning
Airgun Cleaning
Military Cleaning

Bore Brushes

It is important to use the bore brush properly or you will ruin the brush and damage the firearm.

Before running the brush down the barrel, the bore must first be flushed of abrasive muzzle dirt, moisture and loose powder residue. Run a solvent soaked patch from the breech to the muzzle. This will lubricate any abrasive material and take it out in the shortest distance. When you first use the patch, it may pick up the dirt in the material of the patch. Do not run this patch a second time, or else you will scratch the throat and bore.

Run the proper size brush down the barrel. Always go from the chamber to the muzzle. Two to three times down the bore is usually sufficient. Now run a tight patch with solvent, as this will scrub deep into the corners of the rifling. Remember that a brush does not clean a firearm, it only loosens the debris. You need a tight swab to remove this loosened materials.

Always place the brush back into a container after use, for this will prevent airborne dirt and lint form accumulating on the brush. This dirt and lint will be deposited in the neck the first time you use the brush.

To clean a brush, soak in material spirits in a small container. We recommend a small container that you can shake and agitate. This will wash dirt form the bristles.

It is important that you never go back and forth with a bore brush. This is the equivalent of bending a wire back and forth until it breaks. Back in forth movement will damage the brush and the firearm. When a brush exits the muzzle you will notice that each bristle throws debris into the air. Is a brush is run in the direction of the receiver it will throw this debris into the chamber, locking lugs and receiver. The number one cause of malfunctions in firearms is the result of cleaning in the wrong direction.

Brush Construction


  • (5) The thread is an industry standard 8-32 thread. However, the thread is rolled onto the brass stem, this gives a thread three times the strength of normal cut threads in brass and 10 times the strength of aluminum threads.
  • (4) Most cut threads require and undercut at the base of the thread, this weakens the stem at this point. The Otis brush does not have this undercut. The mating rod end is relieved to allow the full insertion of the thread. The stem cannot break at this position.
  • (3) The stem is cold welded to the brass core. This process is accomplished with similar metals and 20,000 lbs. of pressure. It is impossible to break this brush. Most Manufacturers use aluminum or steel because it is less expensive. These materials will damage the firearm.
  • (2) The Otis brushes are made oversized to scrub the neck as you pull them down the barrel. If the neck is free of accumulated debris, the case will seat properly. This will give a free and equal release of the bullet upon firing. The first time you pull this brush down the barrel, you notice the difference from other brushes.
  • (1) The core of the brush is made form brass. If you contact any part of the receiver it will not cause damage.
  • You will find that the brushes produced by Otis will give you many times the life of most brushes. Up to 100 times is expected. This is due to the superior construction and engineered features incorporated into the brush. And the fact that you will only be going in one direction (breech to Muzzle).

    Helpful Tip

    When you pull the brush down the barrel, it should pull uniformly in the bore. If you notice the brush pulls easier at the throat, most likely the firearm has fired many rounds. The throat is eroded.

    If the brush pulls easier at the muzzle, water and moisture have entered the bore and rusting the rifling. This is a common occurrence and a new barrel will have to be installed.

    If you want to determine the twist of the rifling . Pull a rod down the barrel with a brush attached to the flexible cleaning rod. The brush will follow the rifling. At the muzzle let the rod return to its normal position and count the fraction or total turns of the rod. This is the turns in this barrel.

    As you use the brush the bristle ends wear slightly. This sharpens the brush to allow it the scrap the carbon and lead and copper loose in the bore. When the brush pulls easier in the bore it can be used on the next smaller series. The following chart will assist you in determining the proper brush diameter.

    Brush Selection

    SELECT THE CALIBER OR GAUGEUSE THIS BRUSH
    CALIBERBRUSH
    NUMBER
    DECIMAL
    SIZE
    SMALL CALIBER BRUSHES 5-40 THREAD
    .177, 5MM#17
    22 RIM-FIRE, 6MM 25 CAL#22A0.228
    REGULAR BRUSHES STANDARD 8-32 THREAD
    22 RIM-FIRE, 219, 22, 222, 5.56#220.228
    6MM, 243, 6.35, 25, 257, 6.5MM#250.260
    270, 7MM, 280,284#270.286
    30, 308, 303, 32, 7.62MM, 8MM#300.328
    338, 35, 9MM, 457, 38 PISTOL#350.368
    370, 375, 380, 9.3MM#380.398
    40, 401, 404, 405, 41, 10.75, 10MM#410.428
    44, 444, 45, 458#450.465
    50 CAL, 12.9MM#500.525
    CHAMBER CLEANING BRUSHES
    22 RIM-FIRE#220.228
    SMALL CARTRIDGES
    22 Hornet 223, 222
    #350.368
    MEDIUM CARTRIDGES
    22-250, 220 Swift, 243, 25-06, 270
    7mm, 300, 308, 30-06, 7.62
    #450.465
    LARGE CARTRIDGES
    338 Magnum, 340 Magnum
    350 Magnum, 375 Magnum
    #500.525
    SHOTGUN BRUSHES 5/16-27 THREAD
    '.410, 28, 20, 16, 12/10 guage




    This site created by Pyramont North America. All rights reserved. Copyright © 2002-2003